Elena Reygadas
Zachari Gotmy in conversation with Elena Reygadas

20 February 2025
Share: Email X Facebook Whatsapp Pinterest

Chef Elena Reygadas has redefined contemporary Mexican cuisine with her soulful, ingredient-driven approach that celebrates tradition and innovation. The significance of this philosophy was recognised when she was named the World’s Best Female Chef in 2023. Not only does her culinary philosophy set her apart, but Reygadas is also very active in her advocacy for breaking down barriers for women in professional kitchens.

Known for her thoughtful, vegetable-forward dishes that highlight Mexico’s rich biodiversity, Reygadas’ ethos recognises food as much more than just nourishment; rather as a platform for conversations about sustainability, cultural identity, and social issues. From the menus at her restaurants to her publications, which delve into topics ranging from food politics to the role of women in gastronomy, Reygadas has found an avenue through which to use her influence to engage diners in deeper reflections on the world around them.
In this Q&A, we explore Elena Reygadas in more depth, from her favourite comfort foods to her vision for the future of Mexican cuisine and the roles of chefs in this evolving community.

Tamarind and corn nicuatole with piloncillo and chile meco

Hoja santa and white cacao criollo

Zachari Gotmi Given your remarkable expertise and experience in the culinary world, I would love to know what dish you personally find most comforting. Is there a particular meal or ingredient that feels like home to you?
Elena Reygadas Tamales, and bread in all its forms, are my ultimate comfort foods. Tamales evoke a sense of tradition and community, while bread—simple yet profound—represents a universal comfort. Both are deeply tied to memories of home and the warmth of shared meals.
ZG How did being named the 2023 Best Female Chef in the world alter your personal and professional life, and what new opportunities or responsibilities do you feel this award has brought your way?
ER The recognition means a lot, especially because it celebrates the collective efforts of a—mostly female—team that works tirelessly and with dedication. After more than a decade of commitment, it's an encouraging boost to keep moving forward.
It’s also an opportunity to showcase the richness and versatility of our cuisine. I’m honoured to share this space with chefs who are exploring new dimensions of gastronomy.
ZG The Elena Reygadas Scholarship is a powerful initiative to support women’s leadership in the culinary field. Can you tell us more about the scholarship and how you hope it will help break down barriers for women, particularly in rural areas of Mexico?
ER Representing Mexican gastronomy comes with a great responsibility, and this scholarship stems from my belief in education’s transformative power—for personal growth, cultural development, and professional advancement. The scholarship aims to support young women in their culinary journeys, fostering a collaborative and inclusive community. It goes beyond covering tuition; it also helps with housing costs, often the biggest challenge for those from rural areas. In its first year, we received 400 applications and awarded three scholarships. By 2023, we were able to support twenty women from across the country. It’s about creating real change in an industry that needs greater equity and diversity.
ZG Mexico City has begun to gain global recognition for its culinary culture. What makes gastronomy in Mexico City so unique?
ER The strength of Mexican cuisine lies in its diversity and blend of influences. It’s not a single cuisine but many, each deeply rooted in geography, climate, history, and local traditions. Mexico City has seen tremendous change in recent years. The pandemic brought an unexpected influx of people—many of whom have stayed—bringing a new palpable energy. Traditional flavours coexist with innovative approaches, creating a dynamic, ever-evolving food landscape. I love how the city embodies the coexistence of history and modernity, making it one of the most exciting culinary destinations in the world.
ZG As someone who is so outspoken about sustainability within the restaurant industry, how do you find suppliers that share the same values?
ER We prioritise suppliers who share our commitment to sustainability and quality. Our relationships are built on mutual respect and adaptability, not just transactions. Most of our purveyors send us weekly produce based on what’s in season, and we design our menus around these ingredients.
At Rosetta, we embrace the natural variability of ingredients, understanding that their flavour, size, and texture change with the seasons. This approach challenges us creatively while minimising waste. Sustainability is not just about sourcing responsibly; it’s about fostering a culture of respect for the environment and the people behind every ingredient.
ZG With your impressive collection of acclaimed dishes, could you share the story behind one of your signature creations?
ER The Pápalo Pappardelle:
Pappardelle is a wide, flat pasta often paired with ragù in Italy. At Rosetta, we prepare it with pápalo, a bold local herb commonly found in Mexico. Traditionally used to cut the richness of lamb barbecue or cemitas, pápalo adds a fresh, digestive quality to the dish. We pair it with a white duck ragù, made exclusively with legs and thighs for their depth of flavour. The pasta’s versatility allows us to experiment with Mexican ingredients, showcasing how traditional techniques can be elevated with local flavours. This dish is both unexpected and deeply rooted in the Mexican culinary landscape.
ZG Mexico’s rich ecosystems and the vast array of native ingredients provide an incredible range of flavours. Is there a lesser-known Mexican ingredient you feel deserves more recognition, and could you share how it enhances your dishes?
ER One ingredient I love is pixtle, the seed of the mamey fruit. It has a unique, nutty flavour that adds depth to desserts and drinks. Using pixtle also aligns with our goal of reducing food waste, as it’s often discarded.
My favourite ingredient, however, is always the one in season. Seasonal produce—like mushrooms and quelites after the rains, or the first mangoes of summer—reminds us to appreciate nature’s rhythms. Every ingredient has its moment, and waiting for it enhances its value and flavour.
ZG The importance of traditional Mexican culture is evident in the menu at Rosetta. However, how did tradition and culture affect the design process at Rosetta?
ER At Rosetta, we start with nature to tell stories through ingredients, blending tradition and innovation. We honour biodiversity by reviving forgotten techniques and pairing ingredients in unexpected ways. For us, innovation can also mean rediscovering what’s been overlooked.
ZG You often speak of restaurants as platforms for environmental and cultural change. Could you explain how Rosetta embodies this?
ER Rosetta is a space for celebrating diversity—of flavours, traditions, and ideas. Our menu reflects the cycles of nature, promoting a diet that is both healthy and respectful of the environment. Restaurants have a responsibility to foster change. By showcasing underutilised ingredients, reducing waste, and advocating for sustainability, we aim to make a meaningful influence on the broader food system.
ZG What’s next for Elena Reygadas? Are there any upcoming projects or plans that you’re particularly excited about?
ER I’m focused on strengthening what we’ve built and ensuring that everything we do has meaning and purpose. Success isn’t measured by growth but by the quality and depth of what we create—one step at a time. I’m excited to continue exploring ways to connect with nature, celebrate Mexico’s rich culinary heritage, and contribute meaningfully to the industry.

Salon Rosetta

*Credits

Photographer: Viridiana Flores

Restaurante Rosetta
Colima 166
Roma Norte, Cuauhtémoc, 06700
Mexico